Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of V14/15 in Fontainebleau

Adam Ondra added a new hard boulder problem to Fontainebleau's map after a session at Toit d'Orsay that started with a completely different goal. The Czech climber had planned to flash a V14 line, but instead walked away with the first ascent of a V14/15 (8B+/C) project he named Little Boy du Fond.

Ondra described the grade as V14/15, or soft V15 for those skeptical of slash grades. The problem carries his signature style: wild 360-degree rotations, a dynamic move into a strong gaston, and a bat hang rest lasting roughly 41 seconds. It isn't the prettiest line in the forest, but it clearly demanded plenty of effort, and the visible relief on Ondra's face after sending it suggested the difficulty matched the buildup.

The day unfolded almost by accident. Ondra had traveled to Toit d'Orsay, an area considered part of the wider Fontainebleau region and located close to Paris, for a session before flying home following a competition. He explained that his motivation to climb on sandstone was high and that his main target was flashing the current version of La Force, graded V14. The original line no longer exists after a large flake broke off, which pushed the start higher up the rock.

His flash attempt stalled at the crux shoulder move in the middle of the roof. He admitted that shoulder moves remain a weak point for him, particularly when combined with a toehook, so reaching that section on the first go already felt significant. Once he managed the move from the start, he decided to finish through the hardest possible exit, choosing the Trinity variation, rated V10, instead of the slightly easier Morpheus, rated V9. That combination produced Little Boy du Fond.

Ondra didn't stop there. He rounded off the session with an ascent of Vertical Art, a V13 problem, before heading to catch his flight. Despite the productive day, he noted that Toit d'Orsay isn't among the best climbing areas he's visited, saying it feels closer to indoor-style circuits than traditional bouldering. Still, he called it a fun place with some genuinely unique moves.

A Tough Week Before the Comp

The competition Ondra referred to was the European Championships, where he competed under difficult conditions. He revealed that he had fallen ill and was unable to climb for a full week, just two weeks before the event. His motivation dropped as a result, but he recovered quickly, and he believes it may have been his best form for a competition this season.

He felt strong through qualification and the semifinals, describing an intense battle on a particularly difficult semifinal route that left him in second place, just behind Alberto Ginés López. The final told a different story: he felt somewhat tired, didn't climb to his usual standard, and a handful of mistakes cost him a place on the podium. Even so, he came away motivated heading into next season.

Ondra ultimately finished fourth, separated from the podium by a single plus on the scoreboard behind Sam Avezou. Ginés López claimed his first European Championship title, while Gio Placci took silver.